Much like many of the other variations of watches that exist, the GMT watch was birthed out of necessity. Much in the same way that the dive watch was made for divers, the GMT watch was made for those who were frequently visiting locations that weren’t in the same time zone (particularly for pilots). The innovation of the GMT watch not only gave another purpose for a watch, but it remains one of the most sought after timepieces to this day.
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Origin of the GMT watch
An invention that came to fruition 70 years ago, the GMT watch was actually something put forward by a company called Pan Am – a US international airline that has since ceased operations in 1991. Anyways, Pan Am approached Rolex asking them to revolutionise a new form of timepiece for their pilots who flew internationally. If it weren’t for this purpose, we may have never seen the Rolex GMT-Master ever created which first began production in 1955.
Despite this, unlike GMT watches which are customisable today to whatever time zone you wish, the original ones developed by Rolex were fixed and set to Greenwich Mean Time as that is where the timeline begins at the Prime Meridian. And so, the GMT watch was birthed becoming a staple for any esteemed watch collector.
Since then, pretty much every watch brand on the planet has a GMT of dual timekeeping watch as part of their range, ultimately showing the impact that horology still has today.
So how does the function work?
With run of the mill watches keeping time in accordance with am and pm, GMT watches work a little bit differently. Opposed to running on a traditional am and pm schedule, GMT timepieces run-on 24-hour rotation, with the bezel more accurately reflecting the time than the hour markers. This would also mean that if your hour hand is pointing toward the right-hand side of your watch it would be the morning as six o’clock reflects midday and 12 o’clock represents midnight.
Adjustability between GMT watches differ depending on the watch and/or manufacturer. Some allow for the 12-hour hand (primary time) to be adjusted manually from the GMT hand whilst others don’t. This enables for wearers to quickly change the local time while travelling without worrying that it will affect the second time zone display. Another area that also varies is whether the second time zone is set by a rotating bezel (similar to that of a dive watch) or the typical way of adjusting it via the crown.
Top 4 GMT Watch Recommendations
Now for the fun part, in this selection of watches I want to cover all bases. Something dressy, something durable and everything in between.
Seiko 5 SSK003K Automatic GMT 'SKX Series'
If you are after something that looks like a Rolex GMT-Master without forking out $20,000, this watch is a winner. A variation of the always reliable Seiko 5 range, the GMT range comes with a rotating bezel, 41-hour power reserve, 100 metres water resistance and date display all for under the $900 price tag! Coming in a flurry of colours between black, green, blue and white it is the perfect entry point into the GMT watch world.
Seiko 5 SSK003K Automatic GMT 'SKX Series'
$595.00
$875.00
Designed for the international traveller, this Seiko SSK003K GMT Men’s Watch offers the convenience of the GMT function. To ensure that it stands out clearly, the GMT hand is bright red with a generous layer of lumibrite to ensure easy… read more
Casio MWQ100-1A World Time Watch
Okay, well this isn’t a GMT watch. But it still shares the ability to track multiple time zones at once with an inbuilt world timer function that tracks 29 different time zones. The way which this differs from a standard GMT watch is that despite being able to track multiple zones, you aren’t able to see both at once. Instead having to change the time zone via the mode button located on the bottom left of the watch.
Besides this, it offers great value at just $199. Coming with a date and day display, inbuilt timer + stopwatch as well as weighing just 60 grams! All things considered it is the perfect sporty yet durable timepiece for those who may be a bit rougher on their watch.
Casio MWQ100-1A World Time Watch
$139.00
$199.00
The Casio World Time MWQ100-1A is a sleek and functional digital watch designed for travellers and adventurers. With its world time feature, it allows users to effortlessly track time in multiple cities around the globe, making it ideal for frequent… read more
Maserati R8853140005 Sfida GMT
For those who are more about their cars, maybe a Maserati GMT is more up your alley. In contrast to that of the Seiko 5 GMT, this watch runs on a quartz movement meaning that once it’s set the timekeeping function will be A1.
Coming in a bit of a larger case size at 44mm, it is perfect for those who have a slightly larger wrist. Containing features such as 100 metres of water resistance and a stainless-steel case and bracelet, this watches offers as a great proposition at under $500.
Maserati R8853140005 Sfida GMT
$365.00
$499.00
The Maserati SFIDA R8853140005 presents a chic option for men seeking refined yet sporty accessories. Its black dial is safeguarded by a mineral crystal, boasting understated markers, indexes, and a date display with magnification. Additionally, the model features an extra… read more
Seiko Presage SSK041J Cocktail Time GMT
Different from every watch in this list, the Seiko Presage GMT range is probably one my personal favourite lines of GMT watches on the market today. Owning one myself I can say they are phenomenal for whatever means necessary. Whether that be dress it up with a suit or more of a casual outfit with nice T-shirt, it does both.
This particularly model coming on a brown leather strap, it can easily be a staple of any watch collection. With a see-through case back, 50 metres of water resistance and a 41 hour power reserve under the $1,000 mark, you can't go wrong at all.
Seiko Presage SSK041J Cocktail Time GMT
$695.00
$925.00
The Seiko Presage GMT Acacia Cocktail Time SSK041J is a men’s automatic watch with a 40.5mm case and a graduated honey yellow dial. As part of Seiko’s new Cocktail Time series with GMT functionality, the SSK041J is inspired by the… read more
Frequently Asked Questions
Are GMT Watches worth spending the extra money?
If it fits necessity absolutely. If not and you don’t have the need to monitor alternating time zones maybe not. Regardless, GMT watches are that of horology and have a special place in the watch community. IF the right one is purchased it and looked after well it can quite easily stand, he test of time and be passed down through generations due to the sheer value that they hold.
In terms of monetary investments, going for GMT’s which are of extreme significance like vintage or limited-edition pieces often serve as stable watches which collectors tend to not lose lots of money on.
How Can I Maintain My GMT Watch?
When spending lots of money on a watch it is important that you look after it regularly – much the same as you’d do with a car or anything that has mechanically moving parts.
By cleaning it regularly, keeping it away from magnets and having it serviced by a professional watchmaker every 3 – 5 years will make sure you get the most lifespan out of your watch.
