How Watch Size Influences Style: Choosing the Right Diameter and Thickness

How Watch Size Influences Style: Choosing the Right Diameter and Thickness

Joshua Houldin Joshua Houldin
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Watches are more than just a timekeeping device. They represent so much more. A symbol of class makes a statement of who you are. The best thing about watches though is that they fit every situation. Whether that being going on a mountain hike, a dip in the pool or paired with a tuxedo, there really is a watch for every occasion.

But how do you ensure that the timepiece you have compliments your look?

Well, one of the initial and most important things to point out is its size – in both diameter and thickness. By getting these two steps right along with a co-ordinated colour palette it will not only ensure that a watch fits your wrist but improve your overall style also.

Table of Contents

What is Watch Diameter?

When referring to the face of a watch it important that you consider diameter as a crucial metric of measurement. It is one of the first things to factor in when making a watch purchase. Referring to the width of the face, watch diameter measures the case horizontally in millimetres (excluding the crown). This measurement ultimately is the major tell for not only how the watch sits on your wrist but also how it compliments to the style of your outfit.

The majority of men’s watches will range between 38mm and 46mm, while women’s anywhere between a dressy 26mm look or an everyday 36mm style. Adding volume to your outfit, a larger case no doubt provide a more noticeable appearance whilst smaller timepieces being much more subtle.

Understanding Watch Thickness

While diameter relates more to the size of your watch, thickness tends to dictate a watch stylistically. Complimenting your style with the correct watch ensures you ready for a particular occasion or trying to achieve a designated look. Despite this, a watches diameter will often corelate to its thicks – the thicker the case the thicker the diameter. But you do get your outliers particular with how many different styles, movements and case designs that are made today. So, let’s go through them.

Anywhere between six and nine millimetres are for your more classy yet understated look. Something to pair with nicely cuffed shirt that won’t disrupt the effort you put into preparing your nicely tailored suit. Brands such as Daniel Wellington are one the brands that have gained a reputation for manufacturing watches like this.

Advancing to the 10-to-14-millimetre range, this more so caters to being multipurpose. Some ideally with a leather or steel bracelet to do a bit of everything. It can compliment a collared shirt or just a T-shirt and jeans. These watches tend to be a bit weightier on the wrist without being “bulky”, making them more durable and a great choice for everyday wear.

Now finally, 15 millimetres and over fall more into the bracket of sports or divers watches – these are the watches made in relatively larger cases. Often made for utility, these watches tend to not be favourable for formal attire – unless you obviously own a Rolex Submariner, wear that every chance you get!

Other sizing details

Besides the previously mentioned measurements there are a few other elements to consider before diving into purchasing a watch. The bezel width is something that on every watch will be different. This is something that often come across as very deceiving particularly when purchasing blindly without trying on.

Dial design is another factor, simplistic and plain designs will often give the effect of a larger face while watches with large hour markers and busy dials make a watch look smaller in size.

The third and final sizing detail is what a strap can do for a watch. This for me is the most important out of the three. I typically wear 38-39mm case size watches, it suits my wrist without looking stupid. I can comfortably wear a 41mm watch given its on a leather strap, so it significantly opens your options. It all depends on what you are searching for but never rule out a watch TILL YOU HAVE TRIED IT ON!

A critics recommendation for each size bracket

Now having the knowledge of how a watch is sized correctly here are my suggestions that tick boxes above. Something slim and formal with a thin case. Something more everyday and multipurpose and something more durable and robust.

Slim Fit Watch

1. Daniel Wellington DW00100630 St Mawes Classic

I said previously that Daniel Wellington do slim watches better than anyone, so it would be a crime to not put them on this list. Coming on a unique steel mesh band and identically coloured grey dial – its not a shade of grey you see on a lot of time pieces. As well as coming in a 40mm case size it fits the average male’s wrist.

I mainly picked this one due to the cool yet understated colour, but in all honestly anything Daniel Wellington is great choice for this category of watches.

Daniel Wellington DW00100630 St Mawes Classic

Daniel Wellington DW00100630 St Mawes Classic

$269.00 $339.00

Monochrome watches often don't receive the recognition they deserve, and the Classic Mesh Graphite is a prime illustration of this. This thoroughly contemporary watch blends industrial influences with our timeless design ethos, maintaining an air of sophistication throughout. The streamlined… read more

Everyday Wear Wacth

2. Seiko 5 SSK023K Automatic

I hear the word every day, my ears prick up and go straight to Seiko because they really are the go-to avenue for a ‘do it all watch’. One of the latest models in the timeless Seiko 5 line of watches. This watch really has it all. Very neutral colours with a stainless-steel band and black dial. A GMT function so it can track multiple time zones with its fourth hand. All whilst having your integral features of an everyday watch – 100m water resistance, durable and well built bracelet and other bonuses like a see through case back!

At just $679, its one of those watches that you can buy and it do the job of three others combined.

Seiko 5 SSK023K Automatic

Seiko 5 SSK023K Automatic

$450.00 $675.00

This Seiko 5 model SSK023K was designed and constructed to be reliable, robust, and functional encompassing the Seiko 5 Sports characteristics in a slimmer and versatile design. With the additional GMT function, it allows you to also track a secondary… read more

3. Citizen NH8390-20L Automatic

Another option on a leather bracelet is none other than this beautiful Citizen NH8390-20L. A bit more lightweight than the previous Seiko, this one leans closer to a dress watch yet offers all of the qualities that an everyday watch should have. Possessing horology through its homage to the iconic Crystal Seven from 1965 with a sunburst deep blue dial it really does dazzle when the light hits it. With it only coming in at $475, it offers phenomenal value.

Citizen NH8390-20L Automatic

Citizen NH8390-20L Automatic

$225.00 $475.00

The C7 series evokes a sense of nostalgia, paying homage to the iconic Crystal Seven from 1965. The original line, now prized by collectors, was groundbreaking, introducing hardened mineral glass for the first time. This contemporary reinterpretation of the classic… read more

Robust and Durable Wear

4. G-Shock GM2100B-3A

Robust and durable, G-Shock is your best friend. Me personally, I prefer the steel faced ones – they just feel a bit more solid for my liking. The GM2100B-3A whilst being dubbed the robust “manly” watch, it can still be styled well. But if you are an outdoors guys or on the tool’s day to day. This one offers tremendous value at just $569.


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